ONE OF THE three most topical wines of the Breede River Valley during the first half of 2018 originates half in Robertson, half in Worcester… From the South African wine region that stretches southeast of Tulbagh and Ceres to Bonnievale, northwest of Swellendam, comes the sparkling wine judged best Cap Classique at the National Wine Challenge. Celine Brut NV, which outscored more reputable bubblies from Graham Beck and Simonsig to come top of the class, is made from grapes that are grown at Mont Blois Estate in Robertson and trucked to the winery of Nuy outside Worcester for pressing.

The bottle-fermented sparkler is named after the late Celine Cloete, a remarkable member of the Nuy Valley community who was actively involved in farming until the age of 97. And the bubbly is made by Melanie van der Merwe, the first person to specialise in sparkling Cap Classique to the point that it’s the only type of wine she makes – primarily under her own label, Tanzanite. Van der Merwe has plenty of experience in her field, having worked several vintages in France at the Champagne houses of Louis Roederer, Pommery and Moët & Chandon before being appointed sparkling wine maker at Distell and then going solo. The Nuy MCC is the last of Van der Merwe’s batches made from the 2011 harvest – left on the lees for longer than other batches and only 1000 bottles produced.

In a wine region renowned for Chardonnay and bubbly, Bon Courage is the only winery in the Breede River Valley that ranks among South Africa’s Top 50 red wine producers. Usually it’s the Inkará flagships that shine brightest on stage when it comes to Cabernet and Shiraz from this Robertson cellar – the 2014 Inkará Shiraz scored gold in 2017 at Syrah du Monde, France, and the 2015 was Best in Class at the 2018 National Wine Challenge (SA). So it was somewhat surprising when the 2016 vintage of the less vaunted Pepper Tree Shiraz not only won gold but was one of the Top 10 at the 2018 edition of Syrah du Monde.

According to Bon Courage cellarmaster Jacques Bruwer, the Inkará spends time in a combination of  first- and second-fill barrels and needs longer for the wine and the wood to harmonise completely. In comparison, The Pepper Tree involved third-fill barrels: “A softer-style Shiraz and ready to drink earlier. It’s also showing its flavours better at the moment. We try to express varietal character with a little less complexity… to make all our wines with the same amount of passion and quality, from the bottom to the top!”

At the 2018 Trophy Wine Show, Arabella Pinotage 2017 was the discovery, the surprise, the bargain, you name it! Winning the trophy for Best Value Gold Medallist, it was released at R50 a bottle from the cellar, less at discount retailers in South Africa’s main centres. You could be forgiven for thinking that the producers have been keeping a low profile, or were media shy. Based outside the town of Ashton, Stephan and Jamie de Wet’s Arabella Wines certainly haven’t been in the limelight for a while, but wow, have they burst back onto the radar!

The back label describes how the name Arabella stems from the De Wets’ horses that grace the farm and suggests that the family lineage can be traced back to 1697 when the first De Wet settler was appointed cellarmaster of the Dutch East India Company! Also stated on the packaging is ‘Wine of Origin Western Cape’, and you may well ask: “Why not WO Ashton or Robertson or Breede River Valley?” And then there’s the matter of different bottlings, different batches. The seal codes of the winning batch: 8317 531895 to 8317 546994.

Celine Chardonnay Pinot Noir Brut NV
WO Western Cape. 85% Chardonnay, 15% Pinot Noir, harvested in January 2011. Méthode Cap Classique: bottle fermented. Matured on the lees for 60 months and on the cork for six months. Riddling by hand. Disgorged in 2016.
Alc 11.6 | R/S 7.5 | TA 6.3 | pH 3.2
Cellarmaster’s Tasting Notes: fruity, flinty, nutty and creamy notes with brioche tones coming through on the nose; fresh, dry and lingering.
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: distinctive toastiness… citrussy freshness… soft, creamy complexity and a crisp finish… dry and savoury.
Pairing Suggestions: enjoy as an aperitif, with smoked venison carpaccio, creamy chicken or grilled salmon.
R165 pb from the tasting venue at Nuy on the Hill, Worcester.

Bon Courage Pepper Tree Shiraz 2016
WO Robertson. Half of the wine fermented dry in barrel, the rest left to ferment dry on the skin. It was then racked into second- and third-fill French oak barrels for 12 – 15 months. Cork closure.
Alc 14.8 | R/S 4.6 | TA 5.5 | pH 3.5
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: reminiscent of spicy plum jam, complemented by pepper and vanilla; soft tannins; red berry and spice follow through from the nose; made to enjoy within four years from vintage.
Winemaker’s Pairing Recommendations: ideal with rich stew, spicy game casseroles, roast pork with sweet sauce.
R94 pb from the cellar in Robertson.

Arabella Pinotage 2017
WO Western Cape. Partially fermented in tank, partially with staves, medium toasting – the wine was oaked for 8 months. 175 000 litres. Longevity forecast: 4 – 8 years from vintage. Bottled under screwcap.
Alc 14.0 | R/S 4.1 | TA 5.7 | pH 3.7
Winemaker Henry Conradie’s Tasting Notes: aromas redolent of mocha and chocolate… flavours of prune, bananas and blueberries… finishing with spicy undertones on the palate.
R50pb from the producer in Ashton.