FROM A SMALL block of seriously old, gnarled and twisted Semillon bush vines planted in the Franschhoek valley circa 1905, grapes for The Pilgrimage Semillon are in very short supply. Taken down the road to Duncan Spence’s Rickety Bridge estate, the fruit is entrusted to cellarmaster Donovan Ackerman and his team in coming up with a very limited edition, less than 300 cases. And so special is Vintage 2017 that it was applauded as a Wine of the Year in the 2020 edition of Platter’s.

“Franschhoek can be described as the Semillon capital of South Africa,” says Ackerman. “We have some of the oldest vines in the Country.” Although not all of the farms in the district have a Semillon in their range of wines, with vignerons producing their flagships from various varieties and sometimes from grapes grown outside the valley.

“To be honest,” Ackerman concedes, “Franschhoek has a bit of an identity crisis.” But discussions are in progress to reach agreement as to which varieties do best in the area. “We are working on a project, so watch this space!”

THE PILGRIMAGE OLD VINE SEMILLON 2017
Limited edition from Rickety Bridge Winery. WO Franschhoek. Certified Heritage Vineyards. Grapes from 112-year-old bush vines. Whole-bunch pressing, natural fermentation (wild yeast) in foudre (huge barrels, Austrian oak) and concrete tanks, left on the lees for 10 months. Matured in the foudre and older 500L barrels for 11 months. 1600 bottles.
Alc 12.9 | RS 2.2 | TA 4.4 | pH 3.5
Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: Initial freshness on the nose opens up to a complex, citrus and zesty lime with underlying floral aromas. A full, rich palate of honey, nougat and citrus balanced with caramel sweetness and lingering finish. Serve at between 8 and 12°C.
Cellaring: Accessible on release and can age until 2027, at least.
Food Suggestions: Will pair well with breyani, chicken curry, roast pork, seafood (including shellfish), roast chicken and paella.
Cellar-door price: R450pb