THE LATE Giulio Bertrand established a tradition at his Morgenster wine and olive farm in Somerset West of releasing Bordeaux-style reds only when they have had the benefits of ageing, although he and his winemakers weren’t averse to strutting the qualities of their beauties in their youth, too. So it is again with the 2014 Estate Reserve, a small quantity of which was made available by allocation in May 2018, six months after being Highly Recommended in Platter’s South African Wine Guide. Another six months down the line and a little more has been eked out as word spreads about it having been judged best Bordeaux blend at the Six Nations Wine Challenge in Sydney, Australia.

Typically, a little of the Morgenster flagship is released four years after harvest to highlight the quality and potential of the vintage. The balance is aged under pristine conditions for release in batches. To monitor the progress, each year the Estate’s winemaking team headed by cellarmaster Henry Kotzé tastes through all the vintages with consultant Pierre Lurton of Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux, France, and the wisdom of this approach has paid off. Morgenster is now able to offer several older vintages at any given time, wines that have been allowed to evolve and develop in the interests of greater complexity. One of the top red blends in the 2018 SA Wine Classification, a standout in the Top Wine SA Hall of Fame.

Morgenster Estate Reserve 2014
Vines between 10 and 22 years old – grown, made, matured and bottled at Morgenster on the Schapenberg in Somerset West. Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (36%), Merlot (36%), Cabernet Franc (14%) and Petit Verdot (14%). Matured for 18 months in French oak barrels (60% new).
Alc 14.5 | RS 2.9 | TA 5.9 | pH 3.6
From the Winemaker’s Tasting Notes: intensity; perfume of plum; almonds and coffee with toffee and pencil shavings, cigar box and cassis. Finely interwoven tannins.
Cellaring Recommendation: up to 20 years.
R476pb at the cellar door.