Ageing SA red wines can be worth it, but what to choose?

WHAT THE inaugural RE:CM 10 Year Old Wine Awards did not do was to confirm what many believe to be true, namely that all red wine improves with age. Because, of course, it’s not true. What the taste-off did serve to do was to highlight a whole bunch of wines that have withstood the test of time, gone the distance and done better than just survive. The best evolve into delightful drinks that are pleasing in their own right, and each to his own as to whether the freshness of youth is preferable or not to the mellowness that comes with age.
 
The competition was sponsored by asset management firm RE:CM who celebrate their tenth anniversary this year, and the aim was to recognise the best South African reds a decade after vintage. Seventeen of the 70 or so wines made in 2003 (entered by around 40 producers) were considered to be particularly desirable and the confidence of the winery proprietors was vindicated in most instances as 70% of the submissions scored 3 Stars (above average) or better.
 
According to the tasting report by panel chair Christian Eedes, “it would seem that generally blends rather than single-variety wines are more suited to being cellared” and the maturation potential of Cabernet Sauvignon especially is “well documented”. Perhaps next time the focus should be on 20- and 30-year-olds – although it will always be a problem trying to rate the quality of such wines now compared to what it was long ago, and buying them so far down the line is virtually impossible through normal channels.
 
Here then are the wines that the RE:CM jury found to be more refined and complex by virtue of a 10-year ageing process – three judged best overall, namely Boekenhoutskloof Syrah, Remhoogte Estate and Rudera Syrah, plus a further 14 rated 4 Stars (excellent) or better:
 
5 STARS
 
Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2003
 
4½ STARS
 
Chamonix Troika 2003
Morgenster 2003
Remhoogte Estate 2003
Rudera Syrah 2003
Tokara 2003
 
4 STARS
 
Alto Rouge 2003
Buitenverwachting Christine 2003
De Trafford Elevation ‘393’ 2003
Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2003
Kanonkop Pinotage 2003
Lourens River Valley 2003 (Morgenster)
Stellenzicht Rhapsody 2003
Uitkyk Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2003
Uitkyk Carlonet 2003
Vilafonté Series C 2003
Vriesenhof Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (1.5 litre)
 
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